Our intrepid young traveller, having wiled a few days away with friends in Bangkok while the Icelandic volcanic ash cloud dispersed, has now returned to France. Awaiting his arrival was an invitation to visit the home of a famous gay couple, Anton and Jim, in their ancient townhouse in La Garde Freinet, a cute medieval perched village inland from St. Tropez. Here comes his report.
The drive to LGF, as I shall now refer to it, takes about ninety minutes from Nice. The first hour is all motorway, most of it through the hilly scrubland of the Massif des Maures, dominated by the impressively rugged red rock of Roquebrune-sur-Argens. Another thirty minutes on the winding, hairpin-rich road towards the coast brings me to LGF, a delightful village, full of ancient houses, their tiled roofs glinting in the sunlight.
A cautious drive through the narrow village streets brings me to the Place de la Vielle Fontaine. I have arrived. On the front of the house sit the ancient fountains, some 200 years old, that originally provided the water source for the whole village. They just happen to be attached to the home of my hosts!
A cheery Englishman, Anton, greets me at the door. His shock of white hair, once rumoured to be have been pink after an embarrassment with a colouring product, frames a mature but classically handsome face. Over his shoulder, his younger lover, Jim, is already uncorking a bottle of champagne. This is a promising beginning. We chat about their lives, mainly Anton’s longstanding fondness for the Cote D’Azur, its sunshine, its beaches and its boys. He flashes me a warm smile. Jim looks unamused. Anton proposes a walk around the town. Jim opts to keep the champagne company.
The town straddles a long narrow ledge of a pass, overlooked by high rocky peaks crowned by the ruins of the ancient fort and a cross.
We leave behind the attractive stone, creeper-clad houses and climb the hill for a great view out over the Maures Massif in all directions.
We wander the narrow streets between the buildings, meander through several squares and reach the 16th-century St.Clément church, with its 18th-century campanile.
This part of town has narrow little streets, sometimes carved through the solid rock. I conclude that this is a pleasant place, with the usual mix of shops, restaurants, galleries and welcoming doorways.
One ancient home, with feature blue shutters looks as if it is waiting to star in a Chanel commercial.
Anton enquires if I am at all hungry. How could I say “No”? Moments later we are installed in a booth in a traditional local restaurant and the Moules have been ordered. They arrive looking gorgeous, succulent and really rather sexy.
Anton rests a hand on my knee and asks if I am enjoying myself. I rest a hand on his and confirm that I am. “Well Jim will be asleep by now,” he whispers. “The champagne always does that. Shall we retire to the house. I haven’t had a chance to show you the view from the bedroom.” He smiled sweetly. I smiled sweetly back. The rest I leave to your imaginations.
Well, okay, here’s a little picture of me that might well help.
Bye bye till next time.
Join our mailing list
- February 14th, 2017
- December 30th, 2016
- December 30th, 2016
- December 30th, 2015
- March 9th, 2015
- February 9th, 2015